Usually, people come to get custom made clothing for a very simple reason : They want to ensure that they get the best fit possible. This factor should in fact concern everyone because we believe that the fit is more important than the fabric and the construction of the suit, at least speaking from an aesthetic perspective. Although there is no such thing as a universal perfect fit, there are some key points to look after when seeking to reach a traditionally speaking well fitting suit. Today, we will tackle these various points with the help of visuals in order to make it easy to follow and understand.
The shoulder is the most important part of any suit. This is due to the fact that this specific part of the jacket is extremely difficult to be altered. Very often, we spend a significant amount of time working on this specific measurement. Moreover, the shoulders are important in order to avoid the inconvenience of having a gap between the collar of your jacket and your shirt. You should be aware that there are a few different shoulder constructions (styles), but generally speaking, the seam should sit exactly on the bone at the end of your shoulder. This allows for a visually appealing look. While wearing the jacket, the shoulder and arm-hole should be in harmony. First, there shouldn’t be any creases on the shoulder, and second, when you move your arms, the shoulders of the jacket should not move too much.
If the jacket in your possession is slightly more padded in the shoulders, the seam should be just over your shoulder bone in order to allow an aesthetically pleasing drape for the sleeve. Always remember that tailoring is all about geometry, and the shoulder plays a key role in the overall look of the jacket and the suit.
As you may know, a gentleman’s shirt sleeve should always be approximately 1 to 2cm longer than the length of sleeve on the jacket. That is pretty much all there is to know regarding this aspect of the suit. Ps. Always get your jacket sleeves altered while wearing a tailored shirt.
Jacket length :
The length of the jacket is another key point that plays a significant role in the overall geometry of menswear tailoring. Over time, this aspect has gone through changes, but as with most measurements, we try to stick to the most timeless standard. In the front, your jacket should fall just after the top of your thumb, which is roughly the equivalent of the heart of your palm. In the back, the jacket should cover your seat, without being any longer than that.
It is important to notice that this measurement can be influenced by a few different factors such as : tailor you are dealing with, region of the world, overall style of the suit. Sports jackets are usually cut shorter on purpose in order to have a more casual aspect.
Rise of pants :
When it comes to tailoring, pants tend to be forgotten, and most attention is dedicated to the jacket. However, pants are just as important, because they will affect the overall look of the suit in the end. When we are discussing the rise of the pants, there are two options: Having the pants sit directly on the waist (generally referred to as low-rise), or having the pants tailored in a high-waisted manner (high-rise). As both of these options are relevant in modern tailoring, it is just fair to say that it’s a matter of personal preference. At the end of the day, we have learned that clients usually use comfort as a factor in deciding which aesthetic to go for.
Length of pants :
The length of the pants is the most subjective aspect of tailoring. We all have different ideals of what it should be, and that depends on multiple factors such as lifestyle, career, etc.. Having a break on your pants is a timeless option, and generally adopted by professionals working in fields that are slightly more conservative or for formal events. If you decide to go for the longer option, please ensure to only have one single break on the shoe, as more than one makes the pants outdated and sloppy.
On the other hand, there is the option of cutting the pants shorter in order to eliminate the break. This option tends to be popular these days, especially with the growing culture of introducing formal wear into casual wardrobes.